Wines £30-£45

Fiona and Niall Shiner had been living in Hong Kong for 18 years when they returned to Britain to take on Niall's parents' property at Amberley. Niall continued with his career, but mother-of-three Fiona decided to plant some vines at the property following a comment by her mother-in-law that the Romans could have grown vines there. The first acre was planted in 2007, with the acquisition of an old cattle farm on the (really quite steep) hill opposite and converting an old barn into a winery in 2016. A third vineyard side since been acquired taking the current area under vine (but not all producing grapes yet) to 58 acres (23ish hectares), still firmly in the ‘tiny’ bracket.

A delightful sparkling Rosé with a pretty pale salmon colour, and a persistent, pale mousse. The aroma is inviting with delicate macerated strawberries and cream, so soft yet persistent presence on the palate, with minerality underpinning red berry fruit and orange zest

100% Timorasso. Five generations of Massas laboured tirelessly to keep the Timorasso flame alight whilst cheap Pinot Grigio and Prosecco rolled past by the truckload. It’s not difficult to see the origins of Walter’s frustration. Here on the steep hills just east of Tortona grow the last few hectares of Timorasso in the world. An ancient variety with thick skins, low yields, high disease susceptibility and immense concentration, it ought to be served by the glass in every restaurant with even the slightest aspirations to a decent wine list. The Timorasso ‘Derthona’ is initially shy in the glass but develops red apple, apricot and tangerine with time. Extended lees contact gives it a creamy mouthfeel often mistaken for oak (there is none) and the acidity will keep it developing in bottle for ages.

Weingut Horst Sauer is named after its owner. Both Horst and his daughter Sandra (who joined the winery in 2004) are winemakers at their 37 hectare estate in Franken - situated near Wurzburg (between Frankfurt and Nuremberg). Their vineyards are focused around the ‘Erste Lagen’ (prime) sites of Escherndorfer Lump and Escherndorfer Fürstenberg. Escherndorfer Lump is a steep south-facing slope protected from cold north-eastern winds, with a top layer of limestone-rich soil.

This is the exquisite Escherndorf am Lumpen - a ‘Grosse Lage’ vineyard plot (a classification given to the best German vineyard sites) first recorded in 1655. This is on the steepest slopes of the Escherndorfer Lump vineyard where the vines are over 30 years old.

Franken Riesling is considered to be the most masculine expression of the variety from Germany (in stark contrast to the femininity of the Mosel) yet from the grand cru (GG site) this full bodied, bone dry Riesling is impressive in its structure and concentration.

This Pinot Noir is a blend of parcels from our own vineyard at Pipers River, Coal River Valley and our growers at Swansea and Ouse. Each of these sites is unique with distinctive individual terroirs, building complexity into the final wine blend.

Each of the different parcels of fruit from across the vineyard sites were picked on their merit. Fermentation started after 2-3 days with plunging of the cap to extract colour and tannin from the skins. The wine was pressed at completion of fermentation and settled before being placed into French oak barriques, where malolactic fermentation took place, prior to filtration and bottling.

Evidence of a warmer vintage is immediately apparent; with the generous red berry fruit aromas, hints of fresh cut plums and fine oak spice. The entry onto the palate of soft red fruits with ripe tannin structure support the sense of a warm vintage. Savoury notes of dried meats and provencal herbs add to the complexity after opening, and will become more integrated with bottle age. The 2016 will reward cool cellaring for 3 – 5 years.

Dalrymple Vineyards

The Gómez Cruzado winery dates back to 1886 when Angel Gómez de Arteche started to produce and bottle his own wine in Haro, at the very heart of Rioja Alta. This was in the day when the wine trade between Rioja and France passed along the Tudela-Bilbao line, and the key Rioja wineries were located around the station of Haro. The winery sits just 100m from the station to this day.

One of Gomez Cruzado's ‘Terroir Selection’, Pancrudo is an expression of selected vineyards around Badarán, in southern Rioja Alta. Here the high elevation, limited yield, red iron-rich soil, northern exposure and continental climate produces a wine with distinctive character. The old bush-trained Garnacha vines are planted in red ferrous-clay soils in the rolling hills of Badarán (near the upper Najerilla), due south of Haro. The vineyards are north-facing at around 650m altitude. The grapes are hand-harvested into 200kg crates, and are sorted by hand at the winery. After fermentation in stainless steel, gently plunging the cap, malolactic fermentation takes place - 65% in new French oak, and 35% in egg-shaped concrete tanks. The resulting wine is blended and bottled.

Awarded 96pts in Tim Atkin MW's Rioja 2022 Special report

Bodegas Gomez Cruzado

Selected from selected blocks from the best and oldest of Esk Valley's vineyards, the "Great Dirt" collection are veru much chief winemaker Gordon Russell's pet passion, made to age gracefully and showcase the terroir of the different sites

Aromas of rose petal, red berries and grilled meats are compelling. The wine is round and mouthfilling with a red fruited profile, but a firm tannic backbone provides complexity and length

Bright and medium-deep garnet in colour with a great aromatic intensity and complexity on the nose. Aromas typical of Tempranillo haromise with those of ageing, toasted and balsamic notes, giving great Gran Reserva typicity. On the palate - round, structured, with good integration of the barrel-ageing notes and the ripe black fruit. Its finish is long.

C.V.N.E.